Pleasingly Plumped

Posted by: smilie on 01/27/2005 - 03:06 PM
These furrow fixers marshal the skin's own moisture

Lasers...chemical peels...collagen shots...Botox. In the '90s, speedy face fixing concentrated on smoothing the skin's surface. But today, a new generation of wrinkle fillers goes deeper, plumping from within. Restylane and Hylaform, transparent gel-injectables, promise to replicate the fullness of a youthful complexion. Their chief use is minimizing furrows and deep wrinkles, not removing jowls or tightening sagging skin. Women from their 30s to 80s are trying them, even though full treatments start at around $400, and it's too soon to know long-term results.

Both Restylane and Hylaform received FDA approval in 2004 for use on moderate to severe wrinkles and folds, such as the nasolabial fold (from the nose to the corners of the mouth). Doctors agree that's the area where these filler materials work best, though they're also suitable--and being used off-label--for marionette lines (which run from the corners of the mouth down to the jawline), deep frown lines, the lips, the chin, the tip of the nose, and acne scars.





Unlike collagen injections, which build a latticelike structure in the skin, Restylane and Hylaform add volume by drawing moisture into the area and locking it in. Both are composed of hyaluronic acid, which skin naturally contains. Our own supply diminishes with age, but when it is restored via injections, skin seems to fill out from the inside. Allergy testing isn't required, and Restylane and Hylaform last longer than collagen injections (6 months on average, versus collagen's 3 to 4 months). Repeat doses of either will last up to 8 months, says Trevor Born, MD, a clinical lecturer in cosmetic plastic surgery at the University of Toronto.